November 1st, 2004
Oil Everywhere
by Rod Kunishige
Once again TPOC called for a rush Tech Session to change the oil pan gasket in one of our trusty cats. She was a product of August's Tech Session where oil in both the engine with its custom 10 quart pan and transaxle were renewed. Since then, she complained bitterly by leaking all over the garage floor. This is understandable among some of the aged but not of this vibrant 32 year old.
The discussions began when Gary Hirschberg rode his Triumph Bonneville over to help. We wondered where the other two wheels were. He said they are on the Harley at home. Attention then went to Gary Kiebel's car in search of leaks.
Power was a bit of a stretch, so we asked Bill Wright to hold up the connection. His role at a prior Tech Session as engine hoist made him a certain winner as our power manager.
We found oil all over the underside. The harmonic balancer to the end of the transaxle was soaked in the stuff. Both the a/c compressor and oil gauge stand held droplets. That means that oil was on both sides of the block.
Half a bundle of rags was used to wipe the entire area followed by a long test drive to force new droppings. No engine oil this time was noted but the transaxle was again covered with fluid. Why just the transaxle? Well, Gary recalled that we used that great stuff for the box. Vendors and racers love it --- Synthetic. Steve, my neighbor, pointed out that it is fantastic if everything is in brand new condition, otherwise, it will find every means of escape that is possible.
Gary's car sparkles everywhere including the chrome dip stick. I admire shiny things and moved in for a closer inspection which led to a test of who's got the longest dipstick. Measured against my white car, Gary's add oil point was 1/8" longer. Judy McCartney's and the one from my spare engine were alike. Therefore all dipsticks were essentially the same. But Gary's tube was longer so I offered a swap of my black painted dipstick assembly for his shiny chrome one. His longer tube means Gary fills his engine with 3 extra quarts above its capacity. Hard runs in this condition leads to a blown engine and the buildup in sump pressure forces oil out the seals. We decided to replace both oils, so off to the store Gary went for the regular stuff while lunch was cooking.
I lost my chance soon thereafter as Steve quickly cut 1 1/8" off of the chrome tube. It was with hurt feelings that I stood beside that dark blue 72 car with a black tube and dipstick in hand.
Lunch was tri-tips, courtesy of Gary, and Phyllis Kunishige's famous no calorie bean salad. I was responsible for the French fries but failed to start cooking them until after we began to eat.
Refill took 7 quarts of engine oil. The lesson here is don't believe anyone who tells you that there's a 10qt pan in your Pantera until you fill it yourself the old fashion way --- count the quarts as you reach the fill mark but make sure that your tube or stick is not longer than others. Sometimes its better to be the same.
Lesson two is to make sure that you have a perfect transaxle if you are changing to synthetics.
The concurrent project was a replacement for Judy's radio antenna. She has been complaining that she couldn't get it up any more. This is unexpected for a thirty-something. Such troubles are considered seriously here at TPOC. If you can't get it up, we have remedies for you. Just call for a Tech session.
My duty is to give you a list of attendees so you may verify all that I have written. They are as follows:
The Saga Continues.
Upon the eve of all hallows eve, the extremely dark blue (nearly black) cat of Gary Kiebel returned two weeks after our attempt to end its leaks. Replacement of its front transaxle seal is truly a ten to fifteen minute job as proved by our own expert, Lloyd Butfoy of RBT. The swap actually took Lloyd ten minutes. We'll expose his secrets and even recount the events surrounding the swap both before and after the replacement.
The gang besides Lloyd included Gary Mitchem, Bob Culpepper, Bill Wright, Gary Wiebel, Jan Taraszkiemicz, Gary Hirschberg, Mark Nemeth, Dave Rudderow, Rick Flores, Roydon Hughes, and Ron Novak. Only those there will know who were there to watch or to wrench. Nevertheless, all came away with additional knowledge that only comes with age. So, you grey haired youngsters pay attention.
We began with a printout of my Transaxle Pull Procedure list from Rick Flores' Tech Session last February. A check mark was placed as each item was completed except for item 9 (look it up to understand why). Anyone may make the mark or verify its completion.
By noon the transaxle was on the driveway, Lloyd removed the throw out bearing, and pulled the three screws holding the guide tube containing the offending seal. The tube was placed in a bench vise as the seal was deformed by a home made tool designed by Lloyd for this job. The sides of the seal were pushed in and away from the edge so that a flat blade screw driver could gently pry it free. Take special note of the seal's direction. It WILL seem backwards but it is normal once the tube is returned to its home position. I'd advise you purchase two seals because they are very soft and easily damaged. If you are successful on the first try, praise the seal gods and donate the extra seal to another P driver. Lightly coat the tube flange with Hondabond 4 (or Yamaha sealant). Use no other sealant because of the heat it must endure. Be sure to thoroughly cover threads of all three screws. If the bottom screw is not covered, you will be removing the transaxle again to fix a fresh leak source. All done in 10-15 minutes.
Gary hosted a lunch of pork roast and Phyllis fixed her special potato salad along with a relish try. Preceding was written for those who follow our menu selections.
A word about the throw out bearing: Throwout. Gary's was so bad that it could be used as a musical instrument as you turn it by hand. More on this later.
I was told that there are three ways to remove the pilot bushing:
Meanwhile part of the crew went to Roydon's push button to mount a brand new 750 CFM Holley on it. Its new twin feed fuel line was a source of gasoline spray until it was clamped correctly at the barb. Also replaced was the cracked brake vacuum line.
Returning the transaxle to its home consumed the rest of the day without success. Work continued on Halloween itself because the angle of the engine and transaxle simply would not clear the transaxle mounting ears. There is more trick than treat here. We finally had to remove the water tube at the thermostat to get just enough clearance, along with some heavy prying. His starter would not allow enough room for us to get any threads on its studs. The mating of transaxle and engine had forced the steel guide plate to be bent about ¾ inch. A block of wood and my trusty claw hammer (also used in the pilot bushing removal) returned the plate to its proper position.
Gary's test ride surprised him in that his old Centerforce clutch worked much easier now. His concern was so deep that he assumed something must be wrong. Dave tested it and found it to be smooth and strong as well. Lesson: if your clutch is extraordinarily heavy, it may be simply a failing throw out bearing.
“There is something sweet about the sound of a Pantera leaving my home after repairs.”
A final note comes from Roydon, he developed an electrical short in circuit 12 blowing out a handful of fuses. The source was the backup light switch wires at his transaxle. This was caused by crawling into the engine compartment for the carb swap, so be sure to check this exposed wire whenever your tub is removed.
Rod — Nov. 1st, 2004